Flying colors: A dispatch from North Korea’s first-ever air show
The Wonsan Air Show attracted locals as well as tourists, showcasing the DPRK's air power
Over the weekend of September 24-25th, North Korea’s very first air show was held in the eastern port city of Wonsan.
The festival was the creation of Mr. David Thompson-Rowlands, manager and owner of the British tour company Juche Travel Services. An aviation enthusiast himself, Thompson-Rowlands’ company has long focused on providing special interest tours to North Korea.
After having arranged a couple of aviation tours since 2011, the biggest break came in 2015 when the company brought in 150 participants for the 60th anniversary of the North Korean national carrier Air Koryo. Shortly after this event, the Wonsan Air Festival was launched as the next big thing for 2016.
Sunset over Kalma Airport | Photo credit: NK News
Those familiar with negotiations with North Korea will know it was quite an achievement to arrange a festival of this magnitude. It also clearly shows that the North Korean state had a particular interest in the event and it was not just for earning foreign currency.
The festival was very much the creation of Mr. David Thompson-Rowlands, manager and owner the British tour company Juche Travel Services
In a time when North Korea faces even tougher sanctions, including limitations on jet fuel, the air festival could be seen as an act of defiance to show that the country is managing well, despite being under intense pressure from the outside world. This message would also resonate well with the country’s ongoing “200-day speed battle”.
The choice of Wonsan for the venue is also interesting. Initially the plan was to have the festival at the newly rebuilt airport in Pyongyang, but for practical and security reasons this wasn’t possible.
North Korean pilots the “Flowers of the Sky” | Credit: NK News
During an aviation tour in 2015, the schedule was suddenly changed, allowing the group to visit the new airport situated on the Kalma peninsula outside Wonsan. At that time, the airport was not yet officially opened, but from a publicity point of view, it was a smart move to bring in 150 aviation enthusiasts who would appreciate it and spread the word.
It was clear that the airport had been built with international travel in mind, possibly bringing in Chinese tourists and, if the political climate were to change, even South Koreans. The airplane parking spots at the terminal were even prepared to accommodate a Boeing 747 jet – some suggested that it was perhaps in preparation for a visit by a future U.S. President.
Beer for sale at Kalma Airport | Photo credit: NK News
The general impression was that Kalma airport had been designed by someone with a passion for aviation, not only in a practical sense but also with a playful twist. Pleasant public areas with restaurants and cafés featuring airplane interiors added to this feeling. It is rare for major events to be staged outside of Pyongyang, but in this case the unused Kalma airport proved to be the ideal location – it can certainly also be seen within the wider context of promoting the new Wonsan-Mt. Kumgang International Tourist Zone.
MD 500 | Photo credit: NK News
During the two days of the air festival we witnessed several aviation displays, ranging from model aircraft to the entire classical Air Koryo fleet and, of course, fighters and helicopters from the Korean People’s Army Air Force. The last was probably the most unique.
Koreans waiting to go home | Photo credit: NK News
Usually all things even vaguely military are off bounds for photography in North Korea, so this open display in front of hundreds of cameras was quite remarkable. At first the rule was to observe at a safe distance of 5 meters from the military aircraft, but this broke down very soon, especially after the arrival of the two female fighter pilots.
MIG 21 | Photo credit: NK News
These two “Flowers of the Sky”, as they are called by Kim Jong Un, were greeted as heroes by the Korean audience as they made low flybys in their aging MiG-21 fighters. The open participation of the KPA Air Force was yet another indication of how much importance the North Korean state had given to the air festival.
Tupolev 134B3 and Wonsan city | Photo credit: NK News
If the first day was mostly about displays, then the second was all about participation. Some brave individuals even took part in the “friendship skydive” and seemed to enjoy it very much. For the less adventurous among us, there were several pleasure flights with the Air Koryo passenger planes (all newly repainted) and KPA helicopters.
The female pilots attract a crowd | Photo credit: NK News
As is often the case in North Korea, the schedule was tight, so some people even missed their “pleasure flight connections,” but for most it seemed to have gone well. Depending on the type of aircraft, the prices per flight ranged between €100 and €250 .
Usually all things even vaguely military are off bounds for photography in North Korea, so this open display in front of hundreds of cameras with huge lenses was quite remarkable
One interesting addition was the chance to fly with the two small aircraft, Alpi P-400 and Piper Matrix. Sadly the Alpi P-400 flight was canceled (the only cancellation) and the Piper Matrix, more interestingly, was swapped for the PAC-750 XSTOL light aircraft. The pleasure flights took us north along the coast towards the city of Hamhung and back again.
Disembarking Ilyushin 18D | Photo credit: NK News
While there were approximately 200 foreign visitors divided into smaller groups with experienced tour leaders, the Korean audience reached upwards of 20,000. It is likely that people had been “drafted” from the Wonsan area to take part in the event.
This huge crowd was divided into groups with individual designations and leaders. Everyone arrived, by foot, early in the morning and stayed at the airfield until sunset.
Su 25 cockpit | Photo credit: NK News
One very surprising and a quite extraordinary aspect was that the foreign visitors could mingle freely with the Korean crowd, without being accompanied or followed by any obvious minders.
There was a kind of carnival atmosphere, fuelled by several beer tents and snack stalls. As a national beer festival was held concurrently, this gave the participants the chance to sample a wide range of Korean beer at very affordable prices (1 USD per 50 cl).
Aviation enthusiasts on the move | Photo credit: NK News
Real interaction between Koreans and foreigners was limited, naturally, mostly due to the language barrier, but the attitude was friendly and an overwhelming feeling of curiosity. Walking around in the crowd, closely followed by hundreds of eyes, was quite remarkable.
…a quite extraordinary aspect was that the foreign visitors could mingle freely with the Korean crowd, without being accompanied or followed by any obvious minders
Apart from the aviation activities, other events were also arranged, for example a “raffle” in benefit of the North Korean Red Cross: very timely with regard to the recent flooding disaster in the North Hamgyong province. A classical Korean music performance was staged on Saturday night and on Sunday a mass dance took place at the central Haean square in Wonsan.
The crowd watches the show | Photo credit: NK News
As is customary, the foreigners were encouraged to join the thousands of students dancing in the square. At regular intervals, the students shouted the words “IL SHIM TANGYEOL,” meaning “Single-Hearted Unity” – the mass dance gave us quite a literal representation of that ideological concept.
Instead of staying in a hotel in Wonsan, we were all based at the newly renovated Songdowon International Children’s Camp. Staying in pink colored rooms with furniture and facilities designed for young children was quite striking and added to the whole festival experience.
The P-750, later revealed to be of New Zealand origin | Photo credit: NK News
The first ever Wonsan International Friendship Air Festival (as was its full name) was clearly a great success, both for the Korean and foreign organizers. Many people expressed their willingness to return, and Mr. Thompson-Rowlands of Juche Travel Services has already begun planning how to improve and expand the festival for next year.
It is always prudent to take one year at a time when dealing with a country such as North Korea, but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if there’s another, and possibly bigger, Wonsan Air Festival in 2017.
Edited by: Oliver Hotham
The author wished to remain anonymous due to the sensitivity of working in-country
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